The view from here
10 Nov
The weather was way too hot to do anything of import today. We walked up to the Victoria Market, which is a series of markets for produce, meats and other goods just outside of central Melbourne. All we could manage was two hours outside there, and then we crawled back to our hotel to cool off. After lunch, we headed to the Melbourne Aquarium. I had been told that this was better than the Sydney Aquarium, but it turned out to be a bit of a let down, from a size perspective. The Antarctic penguin tank was quite cool (the penguins have figured out that they are the stars of the show), but the other areas, including the sharks were not as impressive as Sydney.
Since we were in the area, we crossed the Yarra river and went to the Crown complex (hoping to see Tiger Woods, as he is staying there while playing the Australian Masters. No luck), and I bought some cigars before having lunch there. (Dinner tomorrow night will be there as well). A stroll around the promenade (still too hot to do anything) and back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.
10 Nov
Turns out Melbourne is in the midst of a heatwave. Daytime temps are in the low-mid 90s, with low humidity, which means the shade is great and the sun is relentless – there’s not a cloud in the sky.
After walking up early, but getting sucked in by NFL football on TV (at 7AM), we decided to take a walk to the Royal Botanical Gardens, which the concierge told us was only a couple of blocks away. Turns out it was more than a mile away. The walk wouldn’t have been bad except for the flies (note to anyone coming here, bring or buy bug spray, preferably some kind of suntan lotion / bug repellent combo). The RBG was nice, but most of the flowering period was over, so it was mostly trees and grass, but with excellent views and quite serene.
After the RBG, we decided to stop in on the National Gallery of Victoria, which we had passed on our way to the RBG. Turns out to have been an excellent decision. A breadth of art and artifact spanning pre-Colombian days to the 20th century, including pieces by Rembrant, Monet, Rodin and Picasso. A must visit if you’re in Melbourne.
9 Nov
Got up early to head to the airport for our flight to Melbourne, not knowing what to expect at the airport. Turns out Sydney airport is relatively quiet on Sunday mornings, and security there is much more laid back. You still have to take your laptop out and your shoes off, but people are either more skilled at getting through security, or security isn’t trying to make a point. Either way, we had an hour and a half to burn, so I picked up Gladwell’s new book and enjoyed myself.
The flight was simple and easy (Qantas has the most efficient flight attendants I have ever seen. Snack and drinks given out to a packed 767 in under 15 minutes) and then a cab ride into Melbourne, which looks nothing like I remember. The skyline has been built up significantly and much of the open scrub areas that surrounded the city a decade ago are nicely manicured suburbs.
The Westin didn’t have our room ready (we were early), so we dropped off our bags and headed to Degraves Street for lunch. Back to the hotel, which upgraded us because they didn’t have our room ready when we first came in, and then out to see a bit of Flinders street before dinner.
Flinders street has an interesting juxtaposition of architecture. St. Paul’s Cathedral, from the mid 1800s, and Flinders Street Station from slightly later, and then Federation Square by Don Bates and Peter Davidson, which is best described as “Gehry-esque”. Jae and I decided to go into the Cathedral, which has some stunning artifacts inside.
Dinner was at the Flower Drum in Mebourne’s China Town. Aside from the street sign, you wouldn’t know there was a top end (#39 according to Gourmet Magazine) restaurant. You knock on the red door, and a Chinese gentleman greets you. If you don’t have a booking, you’re turned away. If so, you are ushered into an elevator and upstairs to the luxurious dining room. Service is excellent, with the waiters plating and building all of the dishes at the table – you don’t even have to roll your own Peking duck. The food was excellent (on par with Mary Chung’s in Cambridge). Finally a great meal.